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Piran, Slovenia and the joy of wandering

Piran: Venetian feel on the coast of Slovenia

Piran, Slovenia lies on the Adriatic, across that sea from its big Italian brother, Venice. Dating back to the 10th century, Piran came under Venetian rule in the 13th century and the influence is unmistakable to this day.

Piran lacks any must-see individual sights. You don’t go for some outstanding museum or a particular historical edifice. You go to wander. You visit Piran to absorb the well-lived-in beauty and even mystery that comes from exploring the alleyways and streets of this Slovenian town with a Mediterranean feel. In the following map, I’ve highlighted (using red markers) places called out below primarily so you have some sense of context and location. But think of these only as suggestions. Piran works best when you make your own discoveries.

A town made for exploring

You wander Piran not as a flaneur, a saunterer of wide boulevards, but as an explorer, a discoverer of intimate wonders. In a place like Piran or any maze-like environment (Lijiang, China, Fez, Morocco or Rothenburg, Germany all come to mind), you’re not wandering as if on a stroll to casually absorb what comes your way. Instead, exploration here is more intentional, a quest to uncover what lies around that next corner. As you go, you’re filled with constant surprise and delight because you have no idea what’s coming, either in the form of people, architecture, light or places (like small shops, beautiful churches, museums, galleries, workshops or just laundry fluttering above you as colorful signs of daily life).

A place of light and shadow

How fitting that both Piran and the word “chiaroscuro” originate in Italy. Chiaroscuro is the dramatic contrast between light and dark often associated with paintings where a single source of illumination creates intriguing shadows and highlights on the subject. In Piran, particularly in the late afternoon, the sun filters into the narrow alleyways (one was no wider than a meter, about 40 inches) illuminating the upper stories of closely-packed stone buildings while the cobblestone streets below lay in shadowy silence.

You’ll likely start in the main square, Tartinijev trg (Tartini Square), and head out through the rear of the square. You then pass through a short tunnel of darkness and emerge into the brilliant afternoon reflections off the Adriatic as you ascend to the town’s ancient city walls for a view over the entire peninsula, a jut of land that both constricts and defines Piran. Pay your two euros to climb to the top of the crumbling stone walls and take in the scene: red tiled roofs surrounded on three sides by the gray-blue sea.

View of Piran from the old town wall. You might even see a huge flock of birds flying by.

Then plunge back into maze, coming up later, for another overview from the top of St. George’s campanile (bell tower). Just a word of warning: try not to be up there on each quarter hour unless you enjoy the ringing of large church bells just a few feet (less than a meter) away from your ears.

A different view of Piran, this one from the St. George belltower

Descend the belfry and pop into the church of St. George. It’s a large church for such a small town. Rumor has it that the residents built it that way so that marauders sailing by would see the grand church and tower, assume the town was much bigger (and thus better defended) than it was, and sail on.

From the church, back you go into the warren of small streets making your way to the end of the peninsula to check out the lighthouse. Stay in the sun as you pass the many restaurants offering views over the bay and fresh seafood. Then turn left at your choosing back into the alleyways and continue the exploration.

There’s no right or wrong way to do Piran. If you feel you’re lost, keep going. You’ll either end up at the sea (or harbor) or in Tartini Square, the oval-shaped hub of the city from which these numerous alleyways spoke off. Near the center, you can see the bronze statue of the square’s namesake, renowned violinist Giuseppe Tartini (1692-1770).

Tartini Square: The heart of Piran

Take a break on the square for a drink or some gelato. Mestna Kavarna, the cafe between the town hall (where you’ll find the tourist information office with helpful maps of the town) and The Venetian House (with its fancy corner balcony) serves a gluten-free double-chocolate gelato that will make a chocolate lover weep.

After your refreshments, pop into the many stores around the square or do what my wife and son did: Head up the south-bound alley between the square and the harbor and look for signs for the “Fish Spa.” There, you can have the callouses of your feet smoothed away by submerging them into tanks filled with small, toothless fish who somehow gently nibble or suck away the dry skin leaving your feet feeling baby soft afterward. Seriously, it seems like a gimmicky tourist experience, but my wife and son loved it. Apparently, if you go in summer, expect long lines to get in.

You can then walk your soft feet back up the hill behind the Tartini Square and have a quiet respite at St. Francis’ church and cloisters where they loop a recording of sacred music. It’s surprisingly soothing.

Which is good because now it’s time to head back into the alleys (unless you first want to pop across the street to one more church, the Church of Mary of the Consolation). Again, you can do as much or as little exploring of these tiny streets as you want. But be aware that even the alleys you visited earlier will appear different as the light fades and evening brings on an entirely different experience. Just be sure to emerge when it gets close to sunset since you’ll want to roam around the beautiful harbor or catch a view the last of the sun’s rays as it dips below the Adriatic horizon.

Getting lost to the rhythms of Piran

When you wander Piran in this way, your explorations can be a wonderful combination of adventure and rhythmic meditative experience, particularly if you’re doing this alone. You go at your own pace, turn where and when you want and create your own adventure. I could see doing this with a friend or partner as well because then you could share in the discoveries. But either way, it’s an immersive experience that is highly personal and highly rewarding. And when you finally get tired, you can try one of the many outdoor restaurants or cafes. And of course, that double-chocolate gelato.

If you go

You could see most of the town on a quick two-hour jaunt. But stay the night. You’ll avoid day-trippers and you’ll have the evening and morning to explore the near-empty streets all to yourself. Plus, running through the alleyways takes away from the meditative appeal of a slower journey.

Visitors must park outside of town either at parking garage Arze (closer, but steeper climb to reach it and no shuttle bus) or at garage Fornace. The latter is on the main road into town with frequent shuttles from the garage to Tartini Square.
If you go in summer, especially during August when Italians flood the city, it will be crowded. If you want a quieter experience, consider the shoulder seasons of May and September. We visited in October and the weather was perfect. Winter, I’ve read, is cold and wet.
There are a few museums like the Maritime or Shell Museum. We didn’t visit these, but they might be worth a look if weather is bad.

If you have the time, do what we didn’t but wanted to do: visit the old Medieval center of nearby Koper (lying 20 km from Trieste, Italy. It’s Slovenia’s main port city and pretty industrial on the outskirts but lovely in its core) or dine in the even closer fishing village of Izola.

Slovenia’s Tolmin Gorge versus Vintgar Gorge

Steve BrockTravel 0

A tale of two gorges

Slovenia is a beautiful country filled with some astonishing sights. The underlying limestone of much of the western part of the country creates magnificent scenery, particularly when rivers pass over this relatively soft rock, wearing it down into fantastical shapes and leaving mineral deposits in the water. This results in creeks and streams that flow in shades ranging from bright turquoise to a deep emerald green depending on the water’s depth, the angle and intensity of the sun and the cloud cover.

Some of the best places to observe this remarkable confluence of light, color, stone and water are in Slovenia’s many gorges.

In terms of seeing two of the most popular, the choice usually comes down to Tolmin Gorge versus Vintgar Gorge.

With both Tolmin Gorge (shown here) and Vintgar Gorge, you walk besides beautiful flowing rivers.

The latter lies just north of popular Lake Bled whereas Tolmin lies further west on the other side of the country’s largest body of stone, the Julian Alps.

At Vintgar Gorge (shown here), you spend virtually your entire time beside the river. With Tolmin, there are several trails that take you up away from the river.

Choosing between Tolmin Gorge versus Vintgar Gorge

Both of these gorges delight visitors. As I reviewed the photos shown here, it’s easy to believe they both look a lot a like. And they do, in terms of stone walls and aqua rivers running through them. But they are quite different in a number of ways.

Another shot of how the walkways at Vintgar Gorge parallel the river most of the way.

More people visit Vintgar (let’s make that A LOT more: visiting in the summer can be claustrophobic) because of its proximity to Lake Bled and also because it is longer with 1.7 kilometers (a little over a mile) of trails or boardwalks that line or criss-cross over the Radova River that runs through the gorge. Tolmin is quieter but shorter and has one spectacular narrow-walled area that stands out.

Which should you visit? I like the advice found here about Vintgar and here about Tolmin. These two articles by Earth Trekkers provide everything you need to know about logistics and what to expect, as well as their opinion on which is better.

I agree with their assessment: If you’re going for easier access and the quantity of beauty, go to Vintgar. Seems like an easy choice, right?

Not so fast.

Here’s an example of how in Tolmin Gorge, the trail takes you up above the river in spots.

When evaluating Tolmin Gorge versus Vintgar Gorge (or any place, really) we often forget that what makes any place special is the overall experience there, not just its physical appearance alone. And even physical beauty is, as the old saying goes, in the eyes of the beholder. So let’s explore some of the other considerations that affect one’s experience anywhere using my own visit to Tolmin Gorge versus Vintgar Gorge as examples.

People

We were there in October, the shoulder season and in some ways, the best season: sunny days but also relatively fewer crowds than in summer. Still, at Vintgar, we were far from alone.

That affected our experience there significantly. I’d get stuck behind large groups of people intent on walking at a turtle’s pace three abreast on the narrow boardwalks. And often, when I stopped to make a photo or just marvel at the ever-changing color of the river, I’d have people brush against me even when there was plenty of space around me.

Here near the entrance to Vintgar Gorge, you can see there are many more people than at Tolmin Gorge despite, as in all these photos, me waiting until there was a lull in the crowds.

In retail, research shows that narrow aisles, say in a department store, decrease sales because of the “butt bump” factor: Your shopping pleasure decreases dramatically when you’re jostled by others. Same with your enjoyment of these gorges.

Here at one of the bridges near the entrance to Tolmin Gorge, you can see there were only a few other people when we visited.

With Tolmin, we encountered perhaps five or six other couples or families the entire time we were there. That made it a much more peaceful and even meditative experience.

In addition, at Vintgar, we were treated like a commodity at the ticket booth. At Tolmin, I was able to joke with the woman selling tickets, both on our initial entry and then later when I ran back to get a jacket from the car for my wife (the gorges can cool off in the mornings and evenings). On my re-entry, I explained my task telling the ticket seller that retrieving the jacket was worth the effort because in my country, we have a saying, “Happy wife, happy life.” I knew the woman’s English was excellent, but she didn’t react. I then added another, “When Mom’s not happy, nobody’s happy. But when Dad’s not happy, nobody cares.” That got a response. I could hear her still laughing long after I left the ticket booth on my way back to the gorge.

The point is, people can make your experience or they can detract from it, no matter how beautiful the place is. Thus, from this perspective, Tolmin won hands down over Vintgar.

Time of day

Here at Vintgar, you can see what happens when the bright midday light creates glare on the water.

With Vintgar, we arrived just before noon. Few popular places are at their finest at midday, not just for crowds, but also for lighting. Sunlight significantly affects the water color of the river in both gorges. You’d think having the sun almost directly overhead would help. And it does for illuminating the shadow areas of the canyon and brightening the water. But it also creates glare and, psychologically, it changes the overall feel.

Lower light adds to the mystery of Tolmin Gorge

The lower light of early evening added to the mystery of Tolmin Gorge for us

At Tolmin, coming in the late afternoon meant fewer people and also a more soothing light. The lower light led to slightly less saturated colors in photos of the river. But as the sun edged toward the horizon, the lengthening shadows enhanced Tolmin Gorge’s mystery and allure, improving both the mood of the place and our mood in it as well. So again, because of our timing, Tolmin took the prize over Vintgar.

Time of year

The month you visit will affect the crowds and light as noted. But it can also affect the water flow. But in this case, it affected both rivers equally, so for us, this was a tie.

Having a quiet moment with few other tourists around improved how I experienced Vintgar Gorge in surprising ways.

Your own attitude and situation

This view from bridge above Tolmin Gorge shows the quiet lack of others present there.

Probably the greatest factor influencing your experience will be you or, specifically, your attitude in the place. I have a friend who, on a trip to London, took his wife and two young children to a famous restaurant. But because their kids were acting up and everyone was hungry and tired, the magnificent meal before them went unheeded or at least undervalued. They couldn’t appreciate the experience around them due to the experience between them.

For us, our visit to Vintgar was in the middle of a long day of driving. Thus, while we wanted to engage all the marvels of Vintgar Gorge in a leisurely manner, we knew we had many hours of driving and much to see ahead of us. With Tolmin, we arrived there after a wonderful day of hiking. We were thus relaxed and had nothing else planned for the evening.

Our mental states differed dramatically in Tolmin Gorge versus Vintgar Gorge and as a result, we absorbed more of the tranquil beauty at Tolmin even though there was less to see there. So, once again, for us, Tolmin won.

Tolmin Gorge versus Vintgar Gorge: The bottom line

Vintgar Gorge wins in terms of its final sight, this waterfall with the old bridge behind it.

A myriad of other factors will influence your situation as well. But these examples hopefully reveal that the physical attributes of a place affect only part of your enjoyment and appreciation of the overall experience. When you take all the factors into consideration, we liked Tolmin more. But if we’d come at a different time of day to Vintgar, it likely would have taken the prize.

Tolmin Gorge wins in terms of its one spectacular area off one branch of the gorge.

The point is this: Be aware of all the factors that will affect your experience in a place. Recognize that more is at work than what you see (even though choosing a place to visit based on its visual appeal is still an important consideration, just not the only one). Understand the dynamics at play. Control what you can: time of day or even the season you visit for crowds, for light and even for weather. Eat and drink so you’re not hungry (and grumpy) or dehydrated, etc.

Do what you can to increase the likelihood of you being in the right place when you’re in that place. And when you do, to paraphrase the line from The Hunger Games, the odds will be ever be in your favor. It won’t matter whether you’re at Vintgar or Tolmin Gorge. You’ll have a remarkable experience either way.

One great day in Ljubljana, Slovenia

Steve BrockTravel 0

Your best day in Ljubljana

Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, is like a chocolate truffle. It’s not large, but it delivers a great deal of flavor and delight in a small bite. You can see most of the main sights in a single day, about as long as it takes to learn how to say its name correctly (j’s are pronounced as i’s so it sounds like lee-oo-bee-yana or lewb-lyana or, well, just ask a local).

Slovenia itself nears the top of European destinations that will surprise most travelers who a) have no idea where it is, b) confuse it with Slovakia, or c) never realize how beautiful and charming this country is. However, for those who do visit, they leave realizing they should have allowed more time there.

Located at the north end of the former Yugoslavia back in the days of Tito and Communism, Slovenia borders Italy on the west and Austria to the north. Drive through its gorgeous Julian Alps and you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in Switzerland. And when it comes to its capital, from certain viewpoints, Ljubljana (got that pronunciation down yet?) may remind you of Salzburg, Austria with its architecture and castle on the hill.

But Ljubljana is its own city with its own personality. And its one you can get to know, in a speed-dating sort of way, on a short visit. Here’s how to get the best of Ljubljana in one day. (Just be sure to use the Google Translate function if you follow the links I’ve provided since many go to the local websites in Slovenian).

Orientation

Most of the sights are all within walking distance and lie along or near the Ljubljanica River that divides the old city to the east from the new city to the west. The river’s banks are lined with willow trees and cafes. Strolling or lingering here will provide you with the main highlights of the city. As you get further from the river, the appeal factor of Ljubljana drops. As an Eastern European city that spent a generation or two under communism, to get to the old town, you’ll pass through several industrial or very utilitarian areas filled with apartment blocks. But that’s not unique to Ljubljana. Just stay close to the river and you’ll be happy (unless mid-century Soviet is your thing).

Preseren Square

To cover the popular and some surprising, lesser-known features of Ljubljana in a day, start off at the heart of the city, Preseren Square (Preservnov Trg, named for Slovenia’s famed 19th century poet, France Preseren).

You can’t miss the bright salmon-colored Franciscan Church of the Annunciation that sits at the twelve o’clock position (with north at the top) on the round square (and yes, I too wonder why they just don’t call it a circle).

At about the two o’clock position, you’ll see the city’s oldest department store, Galerija Emporium with its interesting Art Nouveau facade and interior. At the five to seven o’clock positions, you’ll find the city’s famous Triple Bridge. The center bridge, based on one in Venice, was built in 1842. In the 1920’s, Joze Plecnik, the city’s most well-known and prolific architect (it seems as if he designed half the city) added two similar bridges to create a pedestrian-only thoroughfare that defines this central meeting place in Ljubljana.

Starting early

If you want to start early with amazing pastries, bread and coffee, get going by 8:00 or 8:30 a.m. Most of the shops and even the Central Riverside Market area will still be closed, but that gives you the area to wander without crowds. You’ll do a little backtracking this way, but it is worth it. If you prefer to sleep in, you can still get your baked goods and coffee later as a late-morning snack and skip to the Riverside Market section below.

Stari Trg

For you larks, your breakfast destination lies on probably the most beautiful street in Ljubljana, Stari trg. From Preseren Square, cross the Triple Bridge, go straight into the square before you where you’ll see the Fountain of Three Rivers Sculpture, then turn right (you can’t go straight). You’ll quickly pass Town Hall, currently (as of October 2018) closed for renovation. Keep heading down this street which here is called Mestni trg, but it changes names shortly to Stari trg. This is one of those amazing streets that work perfectly if want to learn how to pay better attention by noticing the right details of a place.

Perkana Osem

You’re looking for the Perkana Osem bakery at 17 Stari trg. It will be on your left and you’ll likely smell it before you arrive. Once there, you can observe the bakers at work in the back.

Cafetino is the green storefront on the left. Later in the day when it isn’t raining, you can sit at the cafe tables outside.

Pick out some delicacies and retrace your steps to #5 Stari trg, Cafetino. With over twenty styles of coffee and an intimate interior, it’s considered the best place for coffee in the city. Later, on a sunny day, you can sip your coffee at one of their outdoor tables. For now, once you’ve had your carbs and caffeine, head back to the Triple Bridge.

If you don’t want to walk the Old Town, you can take this tour tram that you pick up near the Triple Bridge.

The Riverside Market, Dragon Bridge and the Castle

If you got a later start and didn’t do the bakery and coffee house, no problem. Just start here at the Triple Bridge. Orient yourself by facing the castle (on the hill before you), then turn left (east).

Porticoes by Riverside Market

Along the porticoes that parallel the river, you’ll find some decent souvenir shopping by merchants who set up their wares each morning around 9:00 or 10:00 a.m.

Keep going, and you’ll arrive at the Riverside Market (aka the Central Market), a daily affair where farmers bring in produce, honey and other items to sell to the city folk. You can grab picnic supplies or snacks here, or just wander.

Roasting chestnuts at Riverside Market

If you want, dart back over to the river from the Riverside Market for a quick look at the Butcher’s Bridge.

Locks on Butcher’s Bridge

It’s filled with some interesting sculptures (not to everyone’s taste, apparently) and loaded with locks fastened there by couples, a now familiar sight on bridges throughout Europe.

Sculptures on Butcher’s Bridge

You’ll also find some rare public restrooms beneath the market side’s entrance to the bridge. Go back to the Central Market then turn left and proceed to the next bridge at the end of the market, Ljubljana’s Dragon Bridge with its namesake sculptures at each end.

Get your selfie with the dragons, then turn around and head uphill, looking for signs for the castle that you can see looming above you on the hill. You can do a somewhat strenuous walk to the top or take the funicular. Once you’re at the castle, you can visit the museum and shops or just take in the view of Ljubljana below you (though as of this writing, the Viewing Terrace is closed for renovations).

Seminary Library

Cathedral and Seminary Library

Seminary Library entrance

Retrace your journey back down the hill back to the Riverside Market. On the west end of the market area there’s a small street you want to go down. On the right, you’ll see a fascinating doorway framed by two titans with the phrase “Veriti & Musis” (Truth and Muses) over the entry. This leads into the Seminary Library, the country’s first public library (established in the 18th century).

It’s a fascinating space of old leather-bound books, ornate wooden bookshelves and a beautiful fresco that fills the ceiling and upper walls. It’s only available by private tour that you have to arrange in advance (you can email them at semeniska.knjiznica.lj@rkc.si to make a reservation).

It’s definitely worth the small effort and donation to visit this exquisite space.

From the library, pop into the nearby St. Nicolas Cathedral (you can’t miss it: Just look for the towers). Note the intriguing bronze doors on the front and especially, the one on the side depicting portraits of 20th century bishops of the cathedral.

Shop and eat

For you early risers, you’ll be repeating your morning journey down Mestni/Stari trg. But this time, you get to shop. The street is lined with boutiques and shops filled with local Slovenian products such as honey and other bee items, salts from the local salt pans on the coast, a book store, several chocolate stores, a place specializing in woolen goods (Madal Bal) and a wealth of others.

If you want some higher end Slovenian souvenirs, on the small stretch that connects the Triple Bridge with Mestni/Stari trg, look for Gallerija Rustika.

Galerija Rustika

You’ll also find that Stari trg is filled with numerous restaurants and cafes. This is a good place to grab lunch if you’re there around this time.

Once you’ve completed your shopping and dining, head to the southern end of Stari trg and you’ll arrive in Gornji trg.

Gornji Trg

Look up the street that runs uphill and you’ll see some of the oldest buildings in Ljubljana.

This whole Mestni/Stari/Gornji trg area is filled with a combination of Medieval and Baroque buildings that visually charm and make this one of the most delightful areas in Ljubljana. Take your time and simply enjoy it.

Cobbler’s Bridge

Crossing the river

So far, you’ve spent the day in the old city. Now it’s time to go to the new city. After coming to the end of Gornji trg, turn right and cross the river. If you stop and look up the river, the next bridge up is the Cobbler’s Bridge, also designed by Plecnik. You’ll have time to explore the river more later, but for now, keep heading straight into the quaint area known as Krakovo.

Your destination is located at Karunova 4 and 6, the former home of Joze Plecnik. Even if you’re not a big architecture fan, the home where Plecnik resided for years is fascinating. It’s exactly as it was when he died in 1957. This is one of those rare museums where nothing is behind glass.

You get right up close seeing the items on his desk or the books on his shelf. It’s a great introduction to the man and also, to Ljubljana since the two are so integrally linked.

Joze Plecnik’s desk in his home.

If you have an extra day, spend it exploring this area or the area’s many other museums. You can also venture over to Tivoli Park. But for now, you still have several hours left on your one great day in Ljubljana tour. So head back to the Ljubljianica River (you’ll see another smaller one near Plecnik’s house that flows into the main river).

Entrance to the National University Library

National University Library

If you’re in Ljubljana on a Saturday, you have a once-a-week opportunity to pop into one of Plecnik’s most famous buildings, the National University Library. As you head north along the river, you’ll cut over after a couple blocks. Your goals is to find a brick and stone building with windows projecting out from the walls that resemble open books. This is the National University Library. You can visit the library’s small bookstore, stairway entrance and a small exhibition space any day. But only on Saturday afternoons do they let the public into the main reading room. As with the Seminary Library, this will mostly be interesting to lovers of books, art and architecture. But the unique spaces can make it intriguing for just about anyone.

Stairway in National University Library

On the south side of the National University Library you’ll find the former monastery known as Krizanke. Joze Plecnik (but, of course!) renovated it and it now serves as one of the primary concert venues in the city (show on the right in the photo below).

Check out the schedule for a possible concert while you’re in town, or just admire the space itself.

More food and exploration

From Krizanke and the National University Library, either return to the river or just meander north through the side streets.

This statue of Ivan Hribar, Ljubljana’s mayor in the early 20th century, stands near the University River by the river.

You’ll soon get to the University District and the large tree-lined square, Kongresni trg. But mostly your goal now is to enjoy the town at your own pace, looking along the cafes that line the river for a great dinner location. Or, if you want yet another snack, here are three great places to try gelato in Ljubljana.

Near the university is Gelateria Romantik. You’ll spot it next to two impressive bronze doors. Here, they use something like 40% less sugar and only natural ingredients. Further along (hey, gelato is worth the walk) and back between Triple Bridge and the Fountain of Three Rivers is Vigo (which gets the number one slot on Trip Advisor) closely followed by Cacao, across the river from Vigo. You can’t go wrong at any of these three ice cream spots. But at Cacao, you can sit in their riverside cafe to enjoy the views and the passing crowds.

The best of Ljubljana

And that, just watching the people and the beauty of the city, may be the best way to spend a day in Ljubljana. Sure, you’ll want to explore many or all of the sights noted above. But allow time to relax, have a great meal or a drink or — gelato! — along the river and observe the locals doing much the same thing. You get all the vibrant energy, stylish fashion and beautiful architecture of a European capital city but on a more manageable scale. In Ljubljana, you can take it all in and enjoy it, even if you only have one day there.

Tag: Slovenia